I'm reposting TECHNIQUES because people on Deviant Art aren't able to find my old journals pre 2010.  And I get enough notes from people that it's helpful to have it around so I don't have to repeat myself.  This is pretty much the same journal as before, although I did alter it a little by adding more dick jokes.

Paper
I use 500lbs rough Bristol board to draw on. Usually I'll buy it in large sheets so I can cut it into smaller pages and save money.  If you can't find it then grab some Strathmore 400lbs press paper (brown cover).  It's a little more than the yellow stuff but it won't bleed as much.  Lately I'm using DC paper which is pretty much the same thing as 500lbs press.  I'll draw on the back of it because I HATE THOSE BLUE LINES.  Nothing cheapens original art like those fucking blue lines.  And all it does is remind me that I'm a comic book artist and not an illustrator.

Brushes
Each page/drawing requires different brushes and tool, so it's hard to say exactly what I use and when I use it.  Mostly I pick whatever I'm in the mood for—sometimes more technical brushes or sometimes a more grainy brush.  I recommend round sable hair brushes #1, #2 or #3—NOT synthetic.  Usually I'll spring for the Rafael or Da Vinci brushes which go for $15 each.  Lately I've found that Da Vinci's quality is slipping and the tips aren't as sharp, but there are some bad Rafaels as well.  No matter how hard I try to find a good brush producer, 1 out of 3 are usually useless.  And nothing makes me happier than wasting $15 for no reason.

Quills
Mostly I use a cheap Hunt 102 crow quill nib, although 1 out of 3 are shit.  Hunt has a monopoly on nibs in the US it seems (why they charge $1.50 on a penny's worth of tin is beyond me.  A fucking tattoo needle costs the same amount and lasts a lot longer).  Another good nib is the Deleter nib from Japan (I think).  It's more expensive but lasts 4 times longer.  When I'm done with my stash of crow quills I'm switching to Deleter for good (and then Hunt will go out of business and I'll be laughing my balls off becuase I'll know it was all because of me).  There are a lot of nibs on the shelf to get overwhelmed with—mostly you only need one kind so don't sweat it.

Other Tools
I'll also use a calligraphy nib once in a while.  Also I'll use finger prints or even smudging.  Splatter is another hit with me—usually right of a nib or flicking with a quill.  Also I'll use microns here and there and ball point pens from time to time.  When I'm on the road I like using a Pentel Pocket Brush because it's clean and easy.  Refill the cartridges manually with Kohinoor ink.

Ink
I use cheap Speedball ink that you can find at most art stores.  Leave the cap off for the night and the water will evaporate a bit, leaving you with darker ink (this is called "aging" your ink).  If it's too thick and won't work on the nib, then add more water.  Ink isn't that special—just sediment and water so play around with it.  But know that the darker the ink the more harmful it is to your brush.  NOTE: Speedball is great on rough paper because it dries inside the sheet.  But if you're using smooth or glossy paper it'll rub off a bit when you erase it.  Glossy has a coating of clay or wax which means ink will dry on the surface—not past it.  Kohinoor is better for glossy I believe.

Mistakes
I use Pro White for mistakes.  Sometimes it takes a few coats to cover up the ink completely.  Once it's dry you can ink back over it and it won't turn blue/purple.  Be careful because some version of Dr. Martin's are water-soluble and can't be inked over after it's dry.  Or you can just work your ass off and never make mistakes.